The “rust” that people see in bronze isn’t rust. Selective leaching doesn’t happen quickly. The weakening of brass accompanies it, so it’s most probably just patina that you’re seeing.
Patina can be easily removed by scrubbing with hot, soapy water. But if that doesn’t work well, it’s probably mild dezincification you’re dealing with. Try using an abrasive slurry like baking soda and lemon/vinegar paste. Leave it on for 5-10 minutes, and then rub it in for a few seconds.
Alternatively, you can also use commercial abrasive polish such as calcium carbonate silver polish. Rinse it properly and coat it with a bit of mineral oil. Lastly, use a microfiber cloth to buff the brass and bring back its shine. It’s like how wide belt sanders give wood the perfect, smooth finish.
To avoid patina formation or tarnishing, you should regularly keep it clean and dust-free. Avoid exposing it to moisture, especially with salts or acids. Sweat is a no-no. Also, any commercial polish used on brass must be rinsed off properly. A coating must be applied to protect the surface from further tarnishing.
Severe dezincification that extends deeply into the alloy is hard to solve, and you might end up discarding the item in the end.
Does Rustoleum stop the damage?
If you’re no stranger to automobile work, you’re probably familiar with protectors and converting primers. There are also removers out there. In my experience, Rust-Oleum products work best on metal that hasn’t rusted that much yet.
As I’ve always mentioned, prevention is better than cure. These products work best on clean surfaces that have little to no rust.
Applying inhibitors on metal already heavily damaged won’t successfully stop it from continuing.
Applying thick coats of Rustoleum on moderately or heavily damaged metal might slow down the process. You’ll see some bubbles or cracks soon enough, and spots will appear sooner rather than later.
When it comes to stopping rusting, you might need two to three products: A metal primer or reformer, a protector, and a top coating or paint. Results may vary depending on the extent of the damage. You’ll still need to remove the existing rust before applying all coats.
In all instructions for various metal primers and inhibitors, it is recommended that you remove a significant amount of rust first. It will let you achieve a smooth, clean surface. Primers or converting primers are usually applied first to ready the surface to adhesion further coatings of other protectors.
These primers usually include ingredients that bond with the rust or turn the surface of the metal into a waterproof, paintable surface. Once the primer coat is set, another coating is usually applied. It will act as a protection layer.
Yes, these products may stop it from worsening. It doesn’t work like magic, wherein one coat or spray will magically melt all rust and stop it from reoccurring. It’s more of a preventive measure rather than a cure. You’ll have to remove existing rust and clean the metal. Prime the surface, and apply a protective coat.
Maybe you don’t want to go to such lengths and extra cost. Make sure any vulnerable item is kept away from moist or wet environments. One trick may be to get a dehumidifier.
Clean items made up of metal regularly to avoid tarnishing. Suppose you notice your home frequently gathering dust. I suggest looking into UV light sanitizers for your HVAC and furnace systems. It avoids multiple exposures of your tool to water due to frequent cleaning.
Lastly, store all susceptible items in areas with proper temperature and humidity. If you noticed that your central home AC is not blowing cold air, you should resolve it quickly. Hot and humid areas do not bode well with avoiding rust. We also have many articles on topics like gauge wire and other things.